edit: oh, and Munchbox, your 'use a DT-03 suggestion' sounds very interesting. Do you know if anyone has ever tried it? I googled a bit but couldn't see anything. The rear-positioned gearbox is sealed to protect from dust and dirt, with the built-in differential gear offering smooth cornering.

If you go brushless, any tips? I don't have soldering kit and all that (but probably will in due course if the kids take to it) Do any come with Tamiya (rather than Lipo connectors? I had a great combo from Orion - Vortex I think - on my 2010 Ansmann Pro which was ready to install out of the box. The chassis provides suitably dynamic driving fun, and is mounted with front and rear wheels of differing offset, If collected or delivered within a reasonable distance I'll also include two Nimh 6 cell batteries (1800 and 3500mah).The DT-02 gearbox seems to be flexible enough to fit a wide range of wheel and tire sizes based on the number of different boots that Tamiya have trown on the chassis. Interesting - I don't see any irregularities with the front camber. Since the chassis uses the fixed-length upper arms from the DT-02, I wouldn't have thought it would be an issue. First up, the unceremonious opening of the box, as has become typical of Tamiya of late, these space saving boxes seem to be the norm, it's a pity but I guess it keeps the costs down on the lesser kits...

Bank holiday on Monday, so I don’t expect it to arrive until later next week, but here what I have on the way: I've just managed to cram the receiver into the receiver box that comes with the chassis...it's not waterproof but should protect it somewhat. Might put some foam lining on the inside of it to afford some more protection. And that's about all for now, can't go any further until the rear universal shafts arrive which should be in the next week or so all being well. Required for completion; 2 Channel Radio System, 1 Servo, Battery and Charger, Polycarbonate Paint for the Body, Tools for assembly and Glue for the Tyres. Then, to finish the the steering we mount the servo into the nose of the chassis. It goes in upside down. There is an easy access hole under the chassis so the servo saver can be unscrewed thus allowing the servo to be removed without completely disassembling the entire steering setup. I really appreciate this design because it reduces the amount of on/off cycles the ball cups must endure, thus extending their life span. That said, I'm not keen on the big hole in the front of the underside of the chassis. I'm going to have to find something to cover that hole up with. A nice piece of adhesive carbon fiber would be perfect. I'll have to see what I can come up with.

Detailed tyre and rim database.

Made from lightweight and durable polycarbonate, it features a rear wing, and can be decorated using the flashy markings included in the kit. It is also possible to fit the smaller front wheels with Dirt Hag I tires, but those have a smaller radius so that's a personal choice. Front lower suspension arms used the U pin similar to the WT01 and the front wheels are bearing type as you can see below. The chassis tub is very rigid, I'm not sure how robust it will be in an impact but time will tell, between the shell and wishbones hopefully impacts will be mostly absorbed. The front stays are affixed to the chassis with 4 screws. One of the screws is a 15mm where the other 3 are 12mm. I don't know why this is the case but I think it is a detail that is easily missed.